In a world in which many collectors have become shy of great white Burgundy there remain a few seemingly bullet-proof domaines that even those badly burned by oxidised bottles from once-feted names are happy to buy year after year. Coche-Dury, Leroy, Raveneau, Dauvissat, d’Auvenay and, perhaps, Roulot fall into this category if you are first lucky enough to find the stock and then lucky enough to win an allocation. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is another such domaine and I have witnessed my collector friends hoovering up as much PYCM as they are able to find, even as the balance of their orders from me has shifted entirely to the red side of the scale.